Walk on a  Glacier, Denali & Wildlife Pt 2 - Anchorage, AK
Walk on a  Glacier, Denali & Wildlife Pt 2 - Anchorage, AK

Denali, Walk on a Glacier & Wildlife Pt 2 - Anchorage, AK

Alaska is a vast wilderness offering unique & extreme experiences. Explore the majestic peaks of Denali National Park, walk on Matanuska Glacier in icy hues of blue & boat to Portage Glacier. Get up close with wildlife giants like whales, bison, bears, and moose. A bucket list must.

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Denali, Walk on a Glacier & Wildlife

Table of Contents
  • Approximate Time: 8-14 days for Parts 1-2

  • Experience the Unique & Extreme - fun factoids

  • Denali National Park and Mt. Denali

  • Anchorage area

  • Matanuska Glacier

  • Portage Glacier

  • Gray Whales

  • More Fun Things to Do - Fairbanks & Anchorage

  • Travel Tips - Anchorage

  • Great add-on trip: Northern Lights & Hot Springs, AK

  • Alaska means "Great Land" in the Aleut Indian language.

  • It has the 11 tallest mountains in the USA. Denali is the highest at 20,310 feet. California's Mount Whitney comes in 12th at 14,494 feet. From Denali's base - it's peak is 1 mile higher than Everest.

  • Wildlife giants live in these harsh conditions: bison, moose, and caribou. Alaska also has the largest bears & whales in the world.

  • It's 663, 267 square miles of wild. Alaska is still bigger than a grouping of 22 states.

  • The coastline is 33,000 miles long which is 50% longer than the coastline around the lower 48 states.

  • There are over 3 million lakes & many aren't named, so it's an estimate. Wisconsin is next with 15,291.

  • In 1867, Russia sold Alaska to the USA for $7.2 million. Russian culture is still evident in several small southern villages.

  • Lowest recorded temperature = -80 degrees F. (that's below 0). If you lived in 80 degree weather, that's a 160 degree difference. STUPID COLD. Having lived in Fairbanks for 18 years - the coldest I got to enjoy (NOT) was -64 degrees F.

Experience the Unique & Extreme

Location = No address. On Park Road off the Parks Hwy. Driving south, it's about 11 miles south of the town of Healy. Cross the bridge, and Parks Rd is on the right. It's about 2.5 hours south of Fairbanks, and 4 hours north of Anchorage.

The Visitor Center is Mile 1.5 Parks Rd. The little community has a Bus and Train Depot, a restaurant, a couple hiking trails, a Park Store and Science Center. The Denali Park Village is 7 miles further south on the Parks Hwy and offers lodging, restaurants, guided tours, and whitewater rafting.

Anchorage, AK - Mt Denali has snow on the peaks all year long
Anchorage, AK - Mt Denali has snow on the peaks all year long
Anchorage, AK - Denali National Park & the tallest mountain in the USA
Anchorage, AK - Denali National Park & the tallest mountain in the USA
Anchorage, AK - Both the moose & caribou are some of Alaska's giants of the animal kingdom
Anchorage, AK - Both the moose & caribou are some of Alaska's giants of the animal kingdom
Anchorage, AK - The beauty & pristine wildernesses of Denali National Park
Anchorage, AK - The beauty & pristine wildernesses of Denali National Park

Denali National Park

Denali National Park

Denali Park is over 6 million acres of wilderness. It's pristine, raw, and can be dangerous mostly due to the wildlife giants that call this environment home - like moose, caribou & grizzly bear.

You'd think with all that wilderness to roam in, they'd stay in their own backyard. Nope, moose are frequently seen around the outskirts of town & in people's yards.

Is it Mt. Denali or Mt. McKinley?

The original name given by Alaskan Natives for over a 1,000 years was Denali - meaning "great one" or "high one". In 1896, a gold prospector came to Alaska and named it after President McKinley. In 1975, Alaska asked to have it officially named s Denali. The federal government recognized it as McKinley since 1917, however in 2015 the decision was reversed and all documents changed it back to the Native name, Denali.

My opinion - they finally did Alaska right.... until I learned about this. In 2025, the USA government changed it again, back to McKinley. I think Alaska should be able to keep it's original name Denali - so I'm keeping it.

Mt. Denali is a majestic peak at 20,310 feet, and it's so big you can see it 150 miles away.

Here's a surprising fact: measured from it's base, Denali is 1 mile taller than Mt. Everest. WOW. Denali is also impressive all year round because the snowy peaks never melt.

From the Parks Hwy turnoff into Denali National Park and you'll find Denali, the highest peak to the southwest. If you love "extreme" adventures - may I suggest a serious skiing trip. Or, maybe train for 2 years to climb that bad boy. No thanks.... not my kind of circus!

Moose on the Loose

On a few occasions, we were visited by a stray giant male that wandered into our back yard. That's like over 1,500 pounds of up close and SCARY. We had a 90 pound Malemute dog that was not too happy about the monstrous intruder, and he would promptly sound the alarm. After a few minutes of Level 5 barking, the moose would slowly meander away totally unconcerned by our dog's display of teeth and strength.

There's 2 types of encounters though that you want to avoid at ALL COSTS. If you were unlucky enough to hit a moose on the road, chances are your car will be totaled. Thank goodness, that some moose are lucky enough to walk away from it. The other encounter is during rutting season - when the males are looking for the ladies. During that time - they get extra cranky & aggressive - so stay as far away as possible. Rutting season starts in September.

Anchorage, Alaska is on the southern coast, and I loved our trips there for 3 reasons. 1. It's warmer than Fairbanks, especially in the winter. 2. They have glaciers & waterfalls which are spectacular when they're frozen & rippled in hues of blues & aquas. 3. The seafood is right off the boat fresh.

We brought our boat one time to Port Valdez to fish for salmon. I'm not really a fan of fishing because I don't like to sit still more than 1.5 hours at a time. When I got the first tug on the line in less than 35 minutes - everyone was surprised. My dad & ex-husband were none too happy either - I mean, that goes against the rule, or something!

Anchorage is the largest city in Alaska with 287,932 as of 2023 which is about 40% of Alaska's total population. Within 50 miles of town, there's about 60 glaciers that are accessible by boat, foot power, train, or dog sled. Matanuska, Portage, Knik, and the glaciers in Prince William Sound are some of the best glaciers to visit with the easiest access.

Anchorage, AK - A view of the city of Anchorage in winter with mountains in the background
Anchorage, AK - A view of the city of Anchorage in winter with mountains in the background
Anchorage, AK - Gorgeous scenery near Anchorage
Anchorage, AK - Gorgeous scenery near Anchorage

Anchorage Area

Anchorage offers a variety of opportunities to learn about the native Alaskan Eskimo history and culture, as well as the wildlife. And, just like Fairbanks - if you're an outdoor lover - this will not disappoint. On my many trips to Anchorage, I chose the activity options that were unique to Alaska and the area.

Fairbanks is located close to the middle of the state with mountains, rivers and wilderness. Anchorage of course has plenty of mountains and wilderness, but the coast is a totally different landscape. Here's a few ideas that aren't your ordinary day.

  • Anchorage Wildlife Conservation Center - a 1.5 mile loop you can walk or drive to see Alaskan wildlife, guided tours are offered with animal encounters. For: AWCC fees & info.

  • Alyeska Ski Area - 27 ski trails and 2,000 vertical feet of slope. Aerial trams, sky bridges, hiking, biking, and skiing.

  • Williams Reindeer Farm - self or guided tours with over 15 different types of animals, or take a hike with a reindeer. Located in Palmer, AK. For: Farm fees & info.

  • Alaskan Native Heritage Center - there's life sized Villages, live cultural performances, shop for Native art & jewelry, a museum and more. For: ANHC fees & info.

Location = Matanuska Glacier. 66500 S. Glacier Park Rd, Sutton AK. Access = foot travel. Book a tour, you'll want it for safety & the learning experience. For 2 hours, go with Glacier Tours. For 3-8 hour tours, go with Nova Alaska Guides and the 6 mile Matanuska Glacier Trek.

Matanuska Glacier gives you an up close & personal experience as you walk on top of the glacier AND.... if you're brave enough - walk inside it. It's a WOW in my book. Matanuska is in the Chugach mountains and is huge - 26 miles long and 4 miles wide. Some of the tours will take you past the Ice-Falls to explore more stunning glacier features.

What I really love about glaciers and frozen waterfalls is seeing the most dazzling colors of blue & aqua. Water appears in these stunning colors because of the science: sunlight consists of all 7 rainbow colors which combine and look like white to our eye. Water absorbs red & orange light the best, while the blue & violet lights travel deeper into the water. That's why oceans appear blue. The water is reflecting the blue colors back to our eye. In warmer water where there's algae present, you'll seen more green hues.

If you examine the ice up close, you'll find it appears like millions of tiny crystals stuck together. Matanuska Glacier is reported as one of the few glaciers in the world that you can explore on foot. FYI: To help in slippery ice/snow - get some fairly good ice cleats for your boots, $35-$65.

Anchorage, AK - Transluscent aqua colors of the Matanuska Glacier
Anchorage, AK - Transluscent aqua colors of the Matanuska Glacier
Anchorage, AK - Mountainous peaks formed by the Matanuska Glacier
Anchorage, AK - Mountainous peaks formed by the Matanuska Glacier

Walk on Matanuska Glacier

Wildlife Giants

Wildlife giants are everywhere in Alaska, both on land and sea. There's a variety of tours available to get a closer look at these beasts in the wild. My only recommendation is to stay in the middle of the tour group.... you know, for safety. And, don't bring really young kids - they're perfect size for an appetizer!!! Want to find out how big these giants get?

Land: Wildlife Giants
  1. Wood Bison - the males usually weigh in over 2,000 pounds and stand about 6 feet tall at the shoulder.

  2. Polar Bears - a male standing on it's hind legs can be 11 feet tall, and weigh more than 1,700 pounds. The largest recorded in Kotzebue, AK was almost 12 feet tall and just over 2200 pounds. Polar bears are the largest bear in the world.

  3. Kodiak Bears - Kodiak's are brown bears and the males have been recorded at over 1,600 pounds. Kodiak bears are the 2nd largest bear in the world.

  4. Alaska Moose - these males easily get to 1,600 pounds and almost 6 feet tall. The Alaskan moose is the largest moose in the world.

  5. Other large land animals: Roosevelt Elk, Grizzly Bear, Caribou, Dall Sheep, and Gray Wolves.

Gray Whales

The longest recorded mammal migration was a gray whale that traveled 13,988 miles. Typically they swim about 12,000 miles/year. Due to dwindling populations, they're mostly in the North Pacific region within 2.5 miles from shore.

Gray whales migrate from the Chukchi & Bering seas between Russia & Alaska down to Baja California, Mexico. There they mate and return the following year to calf. They feed off the coasts of Alaska & Russia, eating roughly 2,400 pounds of crustaceans per day. That's some appetite.

Gray whales are also very smart and one of the friendliest whales. Photo right: It happened so fast, I'm not sure whale species this is.

Anchorage, AK - A migrating gray whale off the coast of southern Alaska
Anchorage, AK - A migrating gray whale off the coast of southern Alaska
Anchorage - Wood Bison Sanctuary, another wildlifegiant at over 2,000 pounds
Anchorage - Wood Bison Sanctuary, another wildlifegiant at over 2,000 pounds
Ocean: Wildlife Giants
  1. Blue Whale - can weigh about 200 tons (400,000 pounds) and be up to 100 feet long. Blue whales are the larges whale in the world, and the largest animal ever known to have lived. They can be seen in Alaskan waters during the summer.

  2. Fin Whale - range in size from 50 to 70 tons (100,000 to 140,000 pounds). The Fin whale is the 2nd largest in the world.

  3. The most common whales found in the Gulf of Alaska - Humpback Whales (40 tons) who are known for breaching the surface. Gray Whales (30-40 tons), see the incredible migration journey up next. And, Killer Whales a.k.a. Orcas (6-11 tons).

Anchorage, AK - Portage Glacier ice flow spills into the lake
Anchorage, AK - Portage Glacier ice flow spills into the lake
Anchorage, AK -A broken Iceberg floating in the lake at Portage Glacier
Anchorage, AK -A broken Iceberg floating in the lake at Portage Glacier

Boat to Portage Glacier

The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center

Location = Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Mile 5.5 Portage Glacier Rd, Girdwood AK. $5 entry fee, open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day. It's run by the Forest Service, and their very knowledgeable.

Begich Boggs has living ice worms in case you're curious. More fun is touching an iceberg chunk they brought in from the lake, and walking thru the ice cave simulation. They also have photos of the original Portage Village that was destroyed in the 1964 earthquake. It's still the 2nd largest earthquake recorded in the world and the largest in the USA. It was felt by every state except 3 on the east coast. The epicenter was next door to Portage Glacier in Prince William Sound.

Up for a hike to see some amazing blue-blue water? At the end of the Moose Flats Day Use Area is the Trail of Blue Ice that travels along pathways & boardwalks and over bridges. It's 5 miles each way with plenty of viewing opportunities for salmon and other wildlife, and some gorgeous scenery of other glaciers. FYI: It's a popular trail, but their website talks of several black bear encounters. Travel with a group, don't carry food, and make noise so you don't startle them.

Location = Portage Glacier. 1500 Byron Glacier Rd, Girdwood AK. Access = boat only. MV Ptarmigan is the only tour boat operating from late May to early September.

Portage Glacier is the 2nd most visited site in Alaska after Denali National Park. Interesting fact I learned - and a little bit gross. OK, not that gross.... but hey, I'm a girl. I figured these would have been scary-movie kind of alien creature, but, ice worms are for real. They feed on algae & stuff that actually grows in the ice. Who woulda thought? Interesting tidbit - their kryptonite is temperature. Ice worms actually melt and die if the ice water gets above 40 degrees F.

When you're on the water - listen for a loud cracking sound and get your camera ready. The ice is "calving". That means part of the glacier will break off, plunging into the frigid waters. Careful though, some of these iceberg calves are so big they create some pretty massive waves. Look at that mesmerizing blue below.

More Fun Things to Do - Fairbanks to Anchorage
  • Riverboat Cruise - on the Chena River in Fairbanks.

  • Salmon Fishing in Valdez - super fresh & delish. Commercial fishing: halibut 6-8 feet long & enormous King Crab legs.

  • Hiking Trails - trails are everywhere. Once, I came across a bear while hiking thru the woods with our canoe. SCARY stuff. See the info on Wildlife in the next section, Travel Tips.

  • Scenic Hwy & Wildlife Viewing - from Anchorage go south on Seward Hwy. Stop at Beluga Point turnout to view beluga whales & Dall sheep along the mountain. We didn't spot any sheep, but the whales were magnificent.

  • Scenic Loop - from Anchorage drive the Seward Hwy to Seward, then hop the ferry around the southern tip to Homer. Drive up the coast on the Sterling Hwy, then back to Seward Hwy & left back to Anchorage. There are multiple small towns for fun sightseeing trips along the way. I've visited many of the small villages, and they're quaint & interesting.

  • Whitewater Rafting - Class 4 in Healy & Denali. Class 5 at 6 Mile Creek - Yikes. To calm it down a bit, but still have an exhilarating ride, try the Nenana. That's the one I've been on - it's an adrenaline pump, but not enough to give you a heart attack! The Nenana is a super fun Class 3-4..... but, DANG it's some chilly-brrrrr water.

Anchorage, AK - A spit of land off the mainland called Homer Spit, next to Homer Alaska
Anchorage, AK - A spit of land off the mainland called Homer Spit, next to Homer Alaska
Anchorage, AK - The boat marina at Seward Alaska
Anchorage, AK - The boat marina at Seward Alaska

Seward, AK

Homer Spit, AK

The Wonders of Alaska

  • Must try foods: Alaskan King Crab legs & the Moose burger.

  • The awe-inspiring & majestic landscapes with the highest mountain peaks & the beauty of glaciers.

  • The Northern Lights in winter & the Midnight Sun in summer.

  • Dog sledding and the extreme Iditarod Race of 1,000 miles. The Alaskan Malamute is powerful & bigger than a Siberian Husky.

  • The birch trees with white bark against a snowy background is a stunning portrait in black & white.

  • Ring of Fire volcanoes along the southwest peninsula & the thermal hot springs.

Birch trees with white bark in snowy winter is a stunning portrait in black & white.
Birch trees with white bark in snowy winter is a stunning portrait in black & white.

Homer - visit Russian villages nearby, living by old traditions.

Seward - visit a historical Russian fur trading post.

Travel Tips - Anchorage

  • The Alaskan bird should be the mosquito - they can really do some damage!

  • Average temps high/low

  • Fairbanks = July 73/52 degrees F. Jan 0/ -15 with lowest at -66.

  • Anchorage = July 62/55 degrees F. Jan 23/14 with lowest at -38.

  • Rain/Wind - southern areas are rainforest and therefore the wettest, even in summer months with higher rains during fall. Fall is short, but so gorgeous as the mountains come alive with vibrant colors.

  • Backpack essentials - cell phone, extra water, bug spray, bear spray & bear horn, tube whistle is louder, flashlight, flares, pocket knife, rope, sunscreen, rain jacket.

  • Winter Essentials - thermal blanket, waterproof boots, dry socks, warm clothing.

  • Hiking conditions - trails can be wet & slippery even in summer. Snow covered areas can be deceiving with ice underneath.

  • Vehicle safety – Keep a spare blanket, boots, jacket, gloves, and snacks in the car. Winter roads can have both ice & snow. Use “winter” tires. If you only have "all season" tires - take snow chains.

  • Wildlife - Don't run, back away slowly. Travel in groups of 4 or more. Make sure food is triple bagged & not heated to keep the smell down. Give a friend your itinerary with estimated time of return.

    Bears are more aggressive in April after hibernating and mamma's with her cubs. Air horns will alert them you're nearby. If they charge, use bear spray.

    Male moose are territorial & aggressive starting September during rutting season. More people have been hurt by moose than bears.

    Wolves are rarely seen, but remember they travel in packs.

  • Trash - Pack out what you pack in.

  • Rivers/lakes – even summer water temps are like super cold.

Anchorage, AK - Dog sledding in the summer with wheels on the sled
Anchorage, AK - Dog sledding in the summer with wheels on the sled